DPM Climbing Issue 26 : Page 11

T Tick List he Jimmy Webb has had a remarkable fall bouldering season. At Lincoln Lake, Colorado, he established The Wheel of Wolvo (V15), then added a harder variation finish called Delirium (V15). He also repeated The Ice Knife and Bridge of Ashes (both V14) at Rocky Mountain National Park as well as Warpath (V14) at Castle Rocks, Idaho. On a short trip to Leavenworth, Washington, Jimmy claimed the 2nd ascent of Carlo Traversi’s recent addition Penrose Step (V14) and flashed numerous V11 and V12 boulder problems as well as The Teacup (V13). You can read more about Jimmy Webb and his recent tear of hard boulders in this issues Pro-files on page 16 and see the exclusive video of Jimmy sending in the eZine version of this issue. Daniel Woods quickly repeated Jimmy’s Wheel of Wolvo and Delirium then added his own V15 to Colorado with the sit-start to The Ice Knife . He then traveled to Colorado's Southern Platte and added Defying Gravit y (V15) before heading to Red Rock. Paul Robinson repeated White Noise (V15) in Rocky Mountain National Park as well as Warpath and two other V14’s in Colorado. Dave Graham also repeated The Wheel of Wolvo , then jetted overseas to slay an old project of his at Fionnay, Switzerland: Foundations Edge (V15). my DPM Magazine Clips In Japan, Dai Koyamada found a new V14 that he called Nostalgia while in Australia Alex Megos created a new bouldering link-up in the Hollow Mountain Cave called Wheelchair that warrants a route grade of 5.15a. In other 5.15a news, Jaws II at Rumney, New Hampshire saw repeats by Andrew Palmer and Paul Robinson while Josh Levin ticked his first 5.14 with Livin’ Astro (5.14c). Tyler Wilcutt added two new 5.14a’s to the Deep South with Cannonball and The Jackal . Jonathan Siegrist continued development at The Fins in Idaho where he put up Better Living through Chemistry (5.14b/c) and two other 5.14a’s. Overseas, Adam Ondra dominated as usual with two more 5.15a first ascents in Norway: Kangaroo’s Limb at the Flatanger Cave and Hell Racer at Hell. He also ticked three 5.14d’s in a day at the Frankenjura in Germany. Ramon Julian established Montserrat Spain’s hardest route with Red Ram (5.15a) and Paige Claassen claimed the second ascent of Art Attack (5.14b), a heinous granite slab in Val Masino, Italy. If there was any doubt, Ashima Shiraishi proved that she is the best kid climber on the planet with two more solid 5.14 ascents at the Red River Gorge, Kentucky: 24 Karats (5.14c) and Fifty Words for Pump (5.14b/c). She also claimed the 2nd female ascent of The Automator (V13) in Rocky Mountain National Park. (Read more about Ashima and see exclusive videos in the feature article "Beating Blocs" on page 24) 12-year-old Mirko Caballero sent his first 5.14b on a trip to Switzerland with Stop Sika while 13-year-old Kai Lightner stayed close to home and sent Lord Voldemort (5.14a) and Trebuchet (5.14b) at the New River Gorge, West Virginia. The newest kid to keep an eye on is 9-year-old Australian Angie Scarth-Johnson who progressed from 5.12d to 5.13d during a trip to the Red River Gorge. Climbing in Yosemite Valley was put on hiatus for a bit due to the closure of the Park during the government shutdown. The dream team of Tommy Caldwell, Chris Sharma, and Kevin Jorgeson made limited progress on the Dawn Wall project this year which ended in a minor injury (separated rib) for Tommy Caldwell. Visiting UK climber Hazel Findlay had a remarkable week in which she free-climbed Freerider (5.13a) on El Capitan and then climbed The Nose -in-a-day with Hans Florine. Dutchman Jorg Verhoeven rope-soloed Freerider in a four-day effort while American Cheyne Lempe claimed the speed record for a solo ascent of The Salathé Wall in 20 hours and 6 minutes. Mayan Smith-Gobat and Libby Sauter set their own speed record with the fastest female team ascent on The Nose route coming it at 5 hours 39 minutes. In Squamish, Canada, the Wideboyz – Pete Whittaker and Tom Randall– both ticked the famous Cobra Crack (5.14). And finally, in the world of high altitude mountaineering, Ueli Steck soloed the South Face of Annapurna in one of the boldest feats of alpinism in recent years. THE BEST Are you wondering where the ac-tion is this winter? Here are three events to to get you through the dog days. events this winter Hueco Rock Rodeo Feb. 14th-16th Huecorodeo.com 11 Rock and Rave Mar. 8th rockandrave.com Red Rock Rendezvous Mar. 28th-30th redrockrendezvous.com

Clips

The Tick List

Jimmy Webb has had a remarkable fall bouldering season. At Lincoln Lake, Colorado, he established The Wheel of Wolvo (V15), then added a harder variation finish called Delirium (V15). He also repeated The Ice Knife and Bridge of Ashes (both V14) at Rocky Mountain National Park as well as Warpath (V14) at Castle Rocks, Idaho. On a short trip to Leavenworth, Washington, Jimmy claimed the 2nd ascent of Carlo Traversi’s recent addition Penrose Step (V14) and flashed numerous V11 and V12 boulder problems as well as The Teacup (V13). You can read more about Jimmy Webb and his recent tear of hard boulders in this issues Pro-files on page 16 and see the exclusive video of Jimmy sending in the eZine version of this issue.

Daniel Woods quickly repeated Jimmy’s Wheel of Wolvo and Delirium then added his own V15 to Colorado with the sit-start to The Ice Knife. He then traveled to Colorado's Southern Platte and added Defying Gravity (V15) before heading to Red Rock. Paul Robinson repeated White Noise (V15) in Rocky Mountain National Park as well as Warpath and two other V14’s in Colorado. Dave Graham also repeated The Wheel of Wolvo, then jetted overseas to slay an old project of his at Fionnay, Switzerland: Foundations Edge (V15).

In Japan, Dai Koyamada found a new V14 that he called Nostalgia while in Australia Alex Megos created a new bouldering link-up in the Hollow Mountain Cave called Wheelchair that warrants a route grade of 5.15a.

In other 5.15a news, Jaws II at Rumney, New Hampshire saw repeats by Andrew Palmer and Paul Robinson while Josh Levin ticked his first 5.14 with Livin’ Astro (5.14c). Tyler Wilcutt added two new 5.14a’s to the Deep South with Cannonball and The Jackal. Jonathan Siegrist continued development at The Fins in Idaho where he put up Better Living through Chemistry (5.14b/c) and two other 5.14a’s.

Overseas, Adam Ondra dominated as usual with two more 5.15a first ascents in Norway: Kangaroo’s Limb at the Flatanger Cave and Hell Racer at Hell. He also ticked three 5.14d’s in a day at the Frankenjura in Germany. Ramon Julian established Montserrat Spain’s hardest route with Red Ram (5.15a) and Paige Claassen claimed the second ascent of Art Attack (5.14b), a heinous granite slab in Val Masino, Italy.

If there was any doubt, Ashima Shiraishi proved that she is the best kid climber on the planet with two more solid 5.14 ascents at the Red River Gorge, Kentucky: 24 Karats (5.14c) and Fifty Words for Pump (5.14b/c). She also claimed the 2nd female ascent of The Automator (V13) in Rocky Mountain National Park. (Read more about Ashima and see exclusive videos in the feature article "Beating Blocs" on page 24)

12-year-old Mirko Caballero sent his first 5.14b on a trip to Switzerland with Stop Sika while 13-year-old Kai Lightner stayed close to home and sent Lord Voldemort (5.14a) and Trebuchet (5.14b) at the New River Gorge, West Virginia. The newest kid to keep an eye on is 9-year-old Australian Angie Scarth- Johnson who progressed from 5.12d to 5.13d during a trip to the Red River Gorge.

Climbing in Yosemite Valley was put on hiatus for a bit due to the closure of the Park during the government shutdown. The dream team of Tommy Caldwell, Chris Sharma, and Kevin Jorgeson made limited progress on the Dawn Wall project this year which ended in a minor injury (separated rib) for Tommy Caldwell. Visiting UK climber Hazel Findlay had a remarkable week in which she free-climbed Freerider (5. 13a) on El Capitan and then climbed The Nose-in-a-day with Hans Florine. Dutchman Jorg Verhoeven rope-soloed Freerider in a four-day effort while American Cheyne Lempe claimed the speed record for a solo ascent of The Salathé Wall in 20 hours and 6 minutes. Mayan Smith-Gobat and Libby Sauter set their own speed record with the fastest female team ascent on The Nose route coming it at 5 hours 39 minutes.

In Squamish, Canada, the Wideboyz – Pete Whittaker and Tom Randall– both ticked the famous Cobra Crack (5.14). And finally, in the world of high altitude mountaineering, Ueli Steck soloed the South Face of Annapurna in one of the boldest feats of alpinism in recent years.

DPMblogSPOT

Http://www.jstarinorbit.com/2013/11/the-new. html

It's funny how much the conditions, your height, and your strengths really affect the way you climb at the New (River Gorge). In the beginning of the trip I was confused and frustrated, but as I moved through the days at the crag - finding routes that suited me better or worse, climbing in crisp 50 degree, dry, breezy awesomeness as well as muggy, drink-out-of-the-sky humid 70+ degree days - I eventually gave up on grades or difficulty associated with them. More than any crag I've ever visited, the grades are straight messed up here. Several ‘5.12's’ took me as many or more tries than ‘14b’. I was only somewhat kidding when I proclaimed that sending Freedom Tree (13d) was the hardest I'd tried all year and there was a single, super reachy move on Coal Train (14a) that keep me coming back 3 days through a variety of conditions, trying hard to finally send. Moral of the story? Toss out the idea of functioning linear grades, especially if you're under 5'6, and just climb what looks awesome - they're all good and they're pretty much all hard - even the 5.11s!!

Http://ryanpalo.blogspot.com/2013/08/extremedouchebaggery.html

Nick Cienski, a veteran hiker and Crossfit enthusiast, has set out to ascend the world's 14 tallest peaks in a record time. Dubbed "Mission 14", he will summit the most 8,000 meter peaks in a year, as well as set the world record for fastest time up the 14 highest peaks. His mission is to raise awareness among the only people who actually pay attention to high altitude antics....high ranking corporate leaders. A group known for their compassion and understanding of those living in poverty. With only a meager $5.6 million and a small army of sherpas at his disposal, Nick hopes to set off on his mission of awareness in the spring of 2014.

Since early 2012 Nick has followed a rigorous training schedule of: fully clothed cold water showering, technical rock climbing Up To 5.4, and taking press conferences on the tarmac. Through strategic outreach and brand management, Nick will turn this.... (160,800 vertical feet, 14 summits, 3 countries) into the help these poor people need.

When Nick is finally standing on the summit of Everest, shoulder to shoulder with octogenarians, paraplegics, and the blind, the world will finally know the plight of those living in poverty.

http://tarareynvaan.blogspot.com/2013/08/rifle-update.html

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Oops! We Goofed

In the last issue of DPM, we mentioned that the pink 5.10 Anasazi Lace was making a comeback in 2014. “Pinks,” as they were affectionately referred to by their devoted owners, were some of the best technical shoes on the market a decade ago and they’ve been sorely missed ever since. Unfortunately, one of our bonehead writers referred to them as a women’s shoe, and some jagoff editor didn’t catch the mistake. Anasazi pinks are actually unisex shoes worn by some of the manliest men in climbing, like Chris Sharma working the moves on Realization (5.15a) or Sonnie Trotter on the first ascent of Cobra Crack (5.14). To apologize to 5.10, and punish our editor for his mistake, we sent him out for a day of climbing to prove that real men have the cojones to wear pink.

ProTIPS w/ Jonathan Siegrist

Fall is winding down and winter is just around the corner. Cool, dry air is sweeping over a crag near you. Grips grip better and that nip in the air is making your summer projects feel like warm ups. For the very same reasons that you're sticking to the stone better, your skin is likely drying out and taking a beating too. If you've ever suffered from splits in the creases of your fingers, I've got a life changing secret to share with you…

At night we heal up: muscles, skin, even broken hearts. However, most of us sleep with our hands balled up making it hard for skin to regrow in the creases. When that skin does regrow, it does so in a contracted position. The next day, when you crimp again, that skin is stretched and immediately re-splits.

Bad-ass pro-trainer Robyn Erbesfield gave me this idea several years ago. At night, to treat a split in the crease, tape a golf pencil, Popsicle stick, or Q-tip to the back of your injured finger so that it remains flat and extended all night. Be mindful not to constrict the blood flow or tape on the actual split. Leave the split open to air and apply a healthy dose of hand salve like ClimbOn to the wound.

It's definitely not all that comfortable to sleep with your fingers taped straight, and it certainly provides some uniquely awkward maneuvering when making moves on a potential bunkmate, but this method has been really successful for me. Along with regularly using ClimbOn I can cut down my split-heal-time to a few nights while before it may have taken a week or more.

Chasing NUMBERS

16: number of 9a/5.14d or harder routes established by Markus Bock in Germany’s Frankenjura.

81,630: Facebook ‘likes’ for Alex Honnold, the most followed climber on Facebook.

2000: approximate length, in feet, of the longest route at Farley Ledge, Massachusetts

100: Maximum height, in feet, of Farley Ledge

50: crimps before the first rest on To Bolt or Not to Be, America’s first 5.14a established by J.B. Tribout in 1986.

0: number of women that J.B. Tribout predicted would ever climb 5.14a or harder.

4: female ascents of To Bolt or Not to Be since he said that.

Read the full article at http://mydigitalpublication.com/article/Clips/1584452/187833/article.html.

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